The journey continues. April 2015; still in India I was preparing to visit some extraordinary sites that were not even a figment of my imagination prior to that trip. Early one morning we set off to experience a waterfall, a temple at the top of a hill and a cave nestled in the deep south of India. The area is believed to be the playground of sages, rishis and divine universal energies. Surrounded by majestic mountains, serene greenery, crystal clear waters and crisp clean air the region is associated with Sage Agathiyar travels, celestial miracles and the medicinal value of the waters that meander through the plains before tumbling down the falls.
On arrival we noted the clear sky, the large shade providing trees, the clean fresh air and the surrounding mountain terrain which was indeed breathtaking. The water gushed over the fall with glory, drenching and splashing over those beneath it and flowed off into the body of water below. I wondered in disbelief how the speed at which the water surged over the falls, did not present any danger to the people below. They were not only safe but were having the time of their lives. It seemed to be a fantastic way to beat the extreme heat as well. I took a quick splash under the falls, but did not fail to notice it’s gentle tempo, clear water quality, soothing, rhythmic sound and therapeutic effect. It only appeared to look forceful and fearsome from a distance.
It was then time to visit the shrine at the top of the hill. We made our way up a series of steps, 100 steps, I was to discover much later. Midway up the steps, I began to feel muscles in my legs I did not know I had. The fierce Indian sun appeared to be grinning with all it’s might. Again, these were temperatures unfamiliar to us. I acknowledged the sun’s strength and accepted it’s challenge. We arrived at the top after the arduous climb and paid our respects to the deities in prayer. We then drew in the magnificence of environmental splendor that stretched before us and immersed ourselves in the purity of the universal energies that enveloped the region. One had to acknowledge the sweet sounds of flowing water in the stream below, the glorious mountain terrain that extended far into the distance, the beauty of the surrounding trees and greenery rustling in the breeze, the brilliant blue sky, cloudless, the magnificent life-giving sun energizing everything below and the clean, celestial mountain air. I found myself pondering “who would not want to live there?”. We explored around the little temple and wondered how building materials were hauled up that terrain to have it constructed all those years ago. My meagre research pegs the temple to have been built by “Chola king Kulothunga Chola II in the 12th century” (Anon). We descended a few large steps to reach the passing stream noting the clarity of the water, hordes of happy fish and some fascinating inscriptions on rocks.
We attempted to find the much talked of cave; without success. Back at the waterfall, all the way down the 100 steps, we are informed by a park official that the cave is “up there”, however we would need to take a guide to find it. We were exhausted and lacked the confidence to manage another round up 100 steps hence graciously declined the offer. An enthusiastic guide, within earshot of the conversation was hearing nothing of it. He jumped up in excitement convincing us that we had to see the footprints of Agathiyar in the cave. His level of steam surpassed our level of diminishing physical stamina and we failed to resist. We were back on the steps. I chose to ignore the sun’s effort to beat me again. I continued to focus on the goal, the cave. We arrived at the top of the stairs, the guide moved towards the stream and pointing across the waters briefly explained the route. It sounded way beyond my capability, dangerous, scary, impossible. We were already beyond exhaustion and close to dehydration. Our helpful driver who participated in all the activities along with us to that point backed away declaring that he would not be joining us. Understandably so. It seemed insane. My husband and I glanced at each other, our analytical minds racing for a logical, rational decision. The physical body was beaten and with the mind was realistically challenged hence none was forthcoming. In that state of chaotic madness, we motioned the guide to continue and we followed. We hopped over burning rocks bare footed which felt to the feet like a griddle. I imagined the sun laughing with glee in response to me accepting it’s challenge. The terrain became more mountainous and the rocks became more difficult to scale. The guide picked up his pace being familiar with the trek. The climb demanded the use of hands, feet, legs, knees, using one’s buttocks, tummy etc. sliding, climbing, jumping and crawling. After approximately 20-25 minutes on the trail, I realized I could not feel my lower body. The perspiration melted off my face. I struggled to move forward. Each time we enquired; the guide replied that we were almost there. This was his response approximately five times. As we continued, we caught sight of the driver. He had astonishingly changed his mind, and decided to join us. He made good progress, got ahead of us and caught up with the guide. My husband closely ahead of me had already had a few slips, slides, cuts and bruises. I was taking strain. I began to question my decision to embark on a quest which appeared to be testing every fiber of my being. My thoughts became scrambled. I had started to lose focus on my goal, reaching the cave. I constantly thought about the return journey which hampered my mental stamina to move forward. I felt delirious. The guide saw me falling behind. He treaded backwards towards us. He got to my side and began to guide me through every step forward, literally. He told me where to step, where to slide, where to grab hold of a branch, where to jump, where to crawl. He encouraged and motivated me with every step I took forward. From that point on, all I could hear was his voice. I did not know it at the time however looking back; that was unquestionably divine intervention at its best. As this unfolded, the driver Ramesh miraculously finds a little packet containing camphor and match somewhere on his path, in between the rocks. We did not realize the significance of this extraordinary find until much later.
A few meters away from the cave, I had slipped back into despair. Both my feet were in a narrow ravine and both my hands clung onto a brunch just above my head. I was in a physically safe place, where I unintentionally chose to break down. I wept hopelessly clinging onto the brunch, although there was no risk of falling, no risk of anything actually. I declared that I had given up and would not get any further. I asked the others to go on without me. I had literally given up. I was disappointed and angry at myself for failing the mission. I felt weak and disempowered. I was pushed to a point of near collapse. My thinking and brain functioning appeared to have shut down. My thoughts were few and muddled. My husband tried hopelessly to get me to let go of the tree and drag myself forward. I continued to cling onto the tree. He stressed the cave was really just a few meters away this time. I did not believe it. He reminded me that this was just a physical hurdle, that I had succeeded with more complex hurdles before. I continued to weep. Giving in, he turned around and asked me to get onto his back. He was going to carry me to the cave. Realizing his intention astonished me. Could anything be more ridiculous? He was as exhausted and beaten as I was but he was offering to carry me to the cave given the unfeasible nature of the terrain. I paused the weeping. A feeling of physical and mental strength inexplicably rose within my body. I looked ahead and could see more rocks and greenery as opposed to doom. I took my husband’s hand and dragged myself forward. There were a few lugged steps and a few climbs before we joined the guide and the driver who were already inside the cave. The match was used to light up the camphor which illuminated the cave. Without the light from the burning camphor there would have been nothing to see beyond the entrance of the cave. All the pain, sweat and tears would have been in vain. It does beg the question as to how Ramesh was able to find the packet and why he chose to bring it along with him.
I put my arms around the rock outside the cave and placed my head on it. I was completely overwhelmed. I got to the cave but there was a force, a power, an unquestionable source of energy that carried me there. The guide was overjoyed that we had finally reached there. The cave was well lit and radiated a golden glow. The guide pointed to the footprints inside the cave with the pure excitement. They were distinctly visible and of a small footed person. I was awe struck. I peered in and around the cave and could not believe I was actually there. It felt like a fantasy. There was ash around the footprints. The guide pulled some of it towards him together with some dried flowers and handed it to me. Although the experience was emotionally and physically exhausting, I distinctly recall feeling a sense of bliss, peace and contentment. There was a sense of being far removed from the trials of the earthly plane and daily toils. It felt dreamlike, intangible. Was this another planet or was living in the city another planet away from this reality which is within our reach? Is this what renunciants sought? Does one have to be a renunciant to achieve it? I had heard of the road less traveled but this was literally and figuratively a path untraveled.
Beyond the city; pushing the mind and body beyond the limits of fear to finding the self, to experience the very nature of universal energies in bliss, peacefulness, tranquility and contentment, which is our true state.
The journey back to the bottom of the 100 steps was shockingly, “a hop, skip and a jump”. I required absolutely no assistance and it took less than half the time than getting to the cave. The experience undoubtedly tested my mettle on a physical, mental, emotional and spiritual level. I am grateful for the opportunity to burn, perspire, crawl, weep, struggle, suffer to atone for my karma. It was an invaluable experience guided by the divine wisdom and compassion of some extraordinary souls who supported and walked beside me selflessly when they didn’t have to. Before departing I acknowledged the mighty sun for showing me some grace and relief without which I surely would not have succeeded.
