The Enchanting Call of the Nilgiris’
We arrived in Coimbatore, a little after midday. It was a hot somewhat breezy December day. Leaving the airport, we headed towards the lush, green, inviting Nilgiri Hills. We chose to stay at a place close to the Agathiyar Ashram in Mettupalyam, Kallar (Tamil Nadu, India) to accommodate frequent back and forth trips. At the time of booking, the accommodation appeared perfect meeting all our requirements, particularly around distance from the airport and the ashram. Reality however unfolded quite differently relative to our expectations.
Harrowing Drive into the Hills
The drive from the airport was long and slow given the evening traffic and narrow roads. We had to pass through Coimbatore leaving behind flat, straight main roads and thereafter ascend steep inclines around meandering hilly terrain. The terrain was not what we expected. There were menacing curves and bends, terrifyingly narrow roads, petrifying precipitous slopes on both sides of the road, speeding cars, buses and trucks, all of which tested our nerves at the same time. The ascent was much longer than anticipated. Scanning the area, eagerly hoping to spot the resort was not fruitful. We were aware that the resort was in the Nilgiris’, but totally unaware of how deep into the forest it was located. The curves and bends eventually created much discomfort and I could feel the threat of motion sickness. The cars, trucks and buses hurtling downwards (as we ascended) felt like dodging bullets. The steep gradient with sharp vertical drops on either side of the road was extremely intimidating. I wondered how the driver remained calm, cool and composed. I pondered anxiously, “Where is this place, where are you taking us?”? And there it was… a board, which answered the question, “The Lungs of the World”, it read. That made sense. The entire area boasted a wealth of towering trees, dense greenery and spectacular landscape. Perhaps my lungs did need some fresh air, perhaps I did need the gentle, soothing, calming energy of the great outdoors. Perhaps it was the prescription I needed.
Nature in it’s Unrivaled Magnificence
We arrived at the resort a little after sunset. Still dizzy from the upward, winding drive we disembarked from the car, with much relief. The resort was indeed deep in the forest surrounded by large, magnificent trees, healthy rivers and many friendly forest dwellers. We concluded the check-in formalities and made our way to a cottage within the dense forest. A troop of excited monkeys greeted and welcomed us as they accompanied us on the short walk. They appeared to be quite domesticated and were quite comfortable being around humans. They had kind, friendly eyes and seemed overjoyed at having guests in their habitat. Huge trees stood proudly and towered over the little resort buildings. Jackfruit trees showed off their plentiful fruits. The sweet, calming fragrance that filled the night air did not go unnoticed. Plants, flowers, foliage, shrubs and insects enjoyed a healthy and well-adjusted existence in and around the resort. The resort was literally constructed deep within the forest; aside from the dwellings all else remined in it’s natural ecological state. The place was pristine, lush, majestic but I silently wondered if it was perhaps too strong a prescription for relaxation.
A Taste of Something Divine
The following morning, we eagerly made our way to the Kallar ashram for a morning prayer. The prayer began with rituals outside the ashram before a grand fire and proceeded to the meditation hall where Agathiyar, the great siddha stood in all his magnificence. A host of priests performed numerous offerings and rituals. Loyal devotees filled the room, all wanting a glimpse or a good photo of the honorable rishi. Sounds of mantra chanting, singing and musical accompaniments shut off all other distractions. The enthralling sounds from the nagaswarm (musical instrument) vibrated through every atom in the room. The collective divine consciousness in the room was notably uplifting. It felt exhilarating and a privilege to behold and experience.
Magic of the Nigiris’
The following day began more leisurely. I chose to use my lethargy to treat my lungs to some fresh, fragrant mountain air and feast my eyes on the breath-taking panoramic views. In planning the trip to India I had included a litany of questions to which I eagerly sought answers, guidance, reasons and knowledge. I was determined to not leave without achieving that goal. Reclining into a chair on the balcony, two floors above, I surrendered to the mountain magic to run it’s course, as I stared into the distance. I gazed at the infinite beauty framed before me. The trees close by stood content and lush and the ones in the distance spectacularly decked the rolling hills as far as the eyes could see. I gently closed my eyes, as they grew heavy. Except for the gentle swaying of leaves, chattering of insects and chirping of birds, there was peace, calm, serenity and tranquility. I began to feel re-oxygenated, almost intravenously. I allowed layers of stress and tension to dissolve and melt away as I guided myself into meditation.
Beauty to Behold
Opening my eyes after some time, I was drawn to a dark, heavy hanging cloud floating high above the hill in the distance. I observed the as the dark, mysterious cloud gradually drifted and slithered beyond the hill. Fading away completely, the peak then revealed a distinct sheath of light – ness (see image below). It was indeed a magnificent show of nature’s extraordinary mechanics. My attention was soon diverted to a playful monkey that arrived unannounced, onto the Jackfruit tree a few meters away. It grabbed and broke off a piece of the dried fruit and began to relish it merrily. It stared at me with warm, kind eyes while it ate heartily. It was not long before it lost all interest in me and leapt swiftly onto another tree, then another, until it caught up with others. When it was out of sight, my attention was drawn back to my relaxation and thoughts. Taking time out to sit in silence, releasing thoughts and connecting with nature unquestionably enabled some significant shifts, provided pertinent answers to some of my questions and enriched my mind, body and soul.
Dark Clouds Gathering Above the Peak
A Sheath of Light Falling Over the Mountain
View from the Room
Jackfruit in Full Glory
Visiting Monkeys
Ruthless Attack
Dinner that evening was scrumptious and as always, the food in India did not fail to exceed our expectations. We enjoyed a short night stroll after dinner, before returning to the room to settle in for the night. I was looking forward to another prayer that was scheduled to commence at the ashram the following morning. Falling asleep however was a struggle. Later that night, my daughter (who had accompanied us on the trip), fell ill. She displayed symptoms of viral gastroenteritis. Her symptoms grew more severe through the night. The hotel staff were extremely accommodating and supportive, rushing over with medication, homemade remedies and more. Around midnight I succumbed to the same violent, ruthless symptoms. There was pain, cramps, nausea, vomiting, fever and extreme loss of energy. The hours dragged on painfully as we spiraled swiftly under it’s ferocious attack. I can safely state that it was a malady my daughter and I had never experienced before. I was extremely concerned about her ability to cope until sunrise; which appeared to never come. Our condition deteriorated considerably through the night and my husband, fortunately, spared from it, was to manage the situation and the two of us.
Meandering Downward
At the crack of dawn hotel staff and management rallied around to get us the medical attention we desperately needed. By that time, we could barely walk unaided. It was not feasible for an ambulance to drive down to our room hence we had to make our way up to the main entrance. Our driver arrived promptly to get us to the hospital. We got into the car and began the arduous journey downwards, meandering around the most unforgiving Nilgiri bends. My thoughts ran rampant and my concern for my daughter intensified. We were in another country, a great distance from home and I was unable to manage her situation, not even my own. Upon reaching the hospital, we were hurriedly taken away for a myriad tests, checks and examinations to be performed. Our amazing driver took care of all the paperwork to save time and prevent further delay in us getting treated. A consultation with elderly, wise, friendly, compassionate doctor followed. Several nurses who conducted different checks and tests presented their findings. There were prescriptions. We were promptly warded and hooked onto dreaded drips. Admittedly, it was the most effective course of action at the time. We were advised to spend the night at the hospital, a thought I could not entertain at that moment.
Time to Trust
Lying on a hospital bed, hooked onto a drip, completely depleted of energy, my thoughts drifted to the prayer at the ashram which I knew was well under way. It gave me some time and space to process and put much into perspective around what was transpiring around me. It was not merely an illness in a foreign country. It transcended beyond ordinary experience deep into a space I had to embrace and trust. I focused on the flow of the drip and prayed it would end so we could still get to the ashram. The time strolled on, 11am, 12am, 1pm, 2pm…the drip dripped on, drip by drip by drip. I grew impatient. I manipulated my drip and increased the speed of the flow. It did not achieve much as it was approaching 3pm and most of the day had already passed. The drip however, produced swift results and we regained strength and control of the symptoms well. Feeling significantly better we checked out of the hospital, made our way to the ashram and caught the tail end of the prayer. Given the severity of our condition a few hours earlier; arriving at the ashram before the end of the day, prior to the conclusion of the prayer was indisputably gratifying. It was nothing short of miraculous.
Not Dying Today
During the drive to the hospital, I experienced what felt like a close call to death, one I had never experienced before (not in this lifetime anyway). It was a point of no fight, no struggle, both physically and mentally. There was no pain or discomfort; an inability to feel anything. There was a sense of quiet and stillness. There was no energy or need to move. All I could do was just be. I surrendered to it. I recall praying “please just get the two of them back home safe” (my husband and daughter). However, in that state of delirium I became 100% certain that I was not going to die and neither was my daughter. How did I know this? I was unaware of it at the time but my consciousness, connected to all things real, revealed it to me. Reflecting on it several years later, I realize one does not need to go that far beyond the mind and body to connect with consciousness, it is available to us right here, is always accessible, holds the most relevant answers and the bliss we seek relentlessly elsewhere. Undeniably everyday life does not always support of simplify living within that space of consciousness for long periods hence it becomes a persevering, ongoing, evolving journey. I fail at it incessantly but giving up is not an option. I went from a state of complete incapitation and hopelessness to complete recovery and normal functioning within hours of each other. Was not the day to die. Can anything more be said of such an experience? Absolutely, watch this space.
Worthy of Mention
The welcoming party at the resort that showed us to our cottage were not just the warm, friendly monkeys. My husband informed me some days after our arrival back home that a green snake, approximately half a meter long, strolled along with us as we made our way to our room, before heading off into the greens. Thankfully, my daughter and I were completely oblivious to it.
Self-Reflection
Have you ever encountered something that went beyond an ordinary experience that may have held significant meaning but you dismissed or disregarded it. You could have been in a precarious or impossible situation and you saw no way out but answers or assistance somehow appeared and the scenario changed miraculously in your favor. Recall it, introspect, reflect on it and determine what your consciousness was communicating or reaffirming.
